The Early Gable Headdress C.1485 - 1520
By the late 15th Century the Coif, worn with the Early Gable,
was exactly the same shape as that of the
"Jewelled or Passement Coif" which had been
worn since 1450. It too was jewelled around its edge and was worn extensively by
the English, French, Spanish, Italian and Flemish Ladies.
It was made from various "Rich and Costly materials" Gold, Silver and an array of
Jewels with Pearls or drop ornaments, frequently used to decorate along its
edge to frame the face. These jewelled edges were called "Passement."
These Coifs’ claim a kinship with the network caps worn in Italy during the
period of the Renaissance. The Italians designed many fine examples of
these fine Jewelled Coifs.’
Beatrice d’ Este can be seen wearing one such Coif with pearls along the edge.
Princess Katherine, of the Spanish Court, is described as wearing
"on her head a cap of Cloth of Gold, covering the ears in the Venetian fashion."
During the late Medieval Period, then the early Tudor Period approx.1490,
the Coif was worn with a Black Linen or Velvet Band or Veil on top of it,
(a transition of the mid C15th Hennin with the
Black Lappet) sometimes embroidered and mostly pointed to suggest
a "Gable Hood." No hair was visible in
most cases, but a "V" loop of Black Velvet was sometimes worn
to lie on the forehead. One such Style can be seen on a Noble Woman
in an Illuminated M.S. dating 1490.
Another chic style of this Coif can be seen from the M.S. "Le Livre des
Cleves et Noble Femmes." It is of a woman spinning. She is wearing a
close fitted coif, with a heavily starched or stiffened Black veil
perched on her head.
The Passement Coif was never worn on its own.
It was always with some other head dressing, like a Black Linen or Velvet
Veil or Band, giving its Gable like appearance. A Bonnet or Flat Cap was
worn with the Passement Coif on the
Continent, especially in Italy and Germany.
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